Seed-starting Problems
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As easy as it is to grow plants from seed, occasionally
we experience trouble spots along the way.
This newsletter is devoted to solutions to some common
seed-starting problems. You will likely nod your head in
recognition of at least one of them!

Solutions to Poor Germination

Seed Viability: If you save seed from year to year, you'll
notice the germination rate decline. Sow the seed extra
thickly to make up for seeds that don't germinate. To
prolong the life of seeds, store them in a cool, dry location
(such as in a sealable plastic bag in the refrigerator).

Temperature: Read the seed packet carefully to find out
if the plant prefers cooler or warmer than normal temperatures.
If no mention is made of preference, assume that a temperature
range of 70F-75F will be sufficient. A heat mat will provide
bottom heat to speed germination.

Light: Some seeds need light for germination, so they should
be sown on top of the propagation mix and remain uncovered.
The seed packet should indicate this. Otherwise, seeds
should be planted at a depth equal to twice their diameter.
If they are planted too deeply, they may not germinate.

Moisture: Gently firm the mix on top of the seeds to ensure
good contact with moisture and eliminate air pockets. Soil must
be kept constantly moist -- not soggy. A spray bottle is handy
for wetting the surface without washing away tiny seeds.

2. Solutions to Spindly Growth

Light: As soon as seedlings emerge, they need as much light
as possible. Waiting even a couple of days can cause the
seedlings to stretch so much that they will never be as sturdy
as they should be. Fluorescent lighting is ideal because you
can control it. Keep the lights about 1-2 inches above the plants,
raising the lights (or lowering the seed trays) as the seedlings
grow. Keep the lights on about 14 hours every day.

Air Circulation: A small fan placed nearby will provide air
movement which encourages sturdy seedlings and
discourages disease.

Temperature: Most plants will develop sturdier stems if they
are grown at 60F-70F during the day and 55F-60F at night--
(note that this is colder than germination temperatures.)
Warmer temperatures can cause rapid, weak growth.

Fertilizer: Excess nitrogen fertilizer can cause weak growth.
Seedlings generally do not need fertilizer until they are
transplanted from the seed tray or when they have 2 sets of
true leaves.

Preventing disease.

Damping off disease is a common cause of seedlings
keeling over and dying. This fungus thrives in wet soils
that are high in nitrogen, so avoid overwatering and don't fertilize
until seedlings are transplanted. Always use sterile, soilless
propagation mix, and sterilize seed-starting equipment before
planting by washing pots, trays, etc., in a 10 percent bleach
solution. Rinse equipment thoroughly.

Watering: While excessive moisture can encourage disease,
seedlings can also die from lack of water. Their small root
systems have limited ability to find soil moisture, so keep the
soil from drying out.

Transplanting Problems
=======================
It's not uncommon for your seedlings to look a bit lackluster for a
few days after transplanting. They should perk up after a week or
so. If not, consider these possible causes of poor growth:

1. Soil staying too wet or too dry.
The root hairs of your plants need both moisture and oxygen in
the soil. If the soil is too dry, the roots won't be able to take up
adequate moisture; if the soil is too wet, the roots can suffocate
from lack of oxygen. Check the soil every day, and water when
the top inch is dry to the touch.

2. Roots damaged during transplanting.
When plants continually look wilted, they may have suffered root
damage during transplanting. Reducing the stress from sun and
wind can help plants survive until their root systems are better
developed. Burpee's lawn and garden blanket can provide temporary
protection. (See page 116 in the 1999 Burpee catalog.)

3. Lack of nutrients.
Plants may need a fertilizer boost to support increased growth. Apply
your favorite liquid fertilizer every two weeks, following label directions.
You can also spray dilute liquid fertilizer -- such as a combination of
fish and kelp emulsions -- on plant foliage. Be careful not to overdo.

Growing Sturdy Seedlings
=====================

In much of the country, late winter and early spring are synonymous
with seed starting, so here are some tips to help ensure that your
seedlings get off to a healthy start.

1. Group your seeds according to how long they need to grow indoors
before transplanting to the garden. For example, tomatoes and
eggplants generally need about 8 weeks of indoor growing, depending
on the variety. Squash needs only about three weeks. It's convenient
to grow plants that are on the same schedule in the same flats.

2. Next, divide seeds into groups according to their preferred
temperature for germination. Some plants are particular about
temperature; others germinate in a wide range of conditions. This
way you can avoid the frustration of sowing one variety that
prefers 70 degrees in the same flat as a different variety that
prefers 60 degrees. If plants have different light requirements for
germination, no problem. Just cover the seeds that like darkness and
don't cover the ones that require light.

3. Prepare seed-starting trays or flats by filling them with
moistened, sterile, soil-less potting mix, such as Burpee Seed-
starting Formula. (Soil from the garden is likely to contain disease
organisms that can kill your seedlings.) Sow your seeds the
recommended depth, then cover each tray with a piece of plastic
wrap or a plastic cover to increase the humidity for better
germination. Place trays in a warm location -- about 70 degrees is
generally best. Burpee's Electra Grow Heating Mat placed under the
trays will ensure steady warmth. Water gently only when the soil
surface begins to dry.

4. As soon as the first seedlings emerge, remove the covers and
place the trays under fluorescent lights for 14-16 hours a day,
keeping the lights about 2 inches above the seedlings. Continually
raise the lights as the plants grow. If you don't have lights, keep
your seedlings in a very sunny window, turning them daily so they
don't stretch in one direction.

5. When seedlings have developed 2 or more sets of true leaves (the
first set is not considered a true set), they can be transplanted into a richer potting.

6. Transplant your seedlings to the garden at the appropriate time
according to their hardiness. Gradually acclimate them to outside
temperatures and light conditions for at least a week beforehand.

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